The Cairo Gyro

the excitement, enjoyment, frustration, and food that comes with living and learning in egypt

IMPORTANT Safety Tips for living in Cairo:

That there says “welcome” in Arabic. Welcome to Cairo. The second most populous city in the Arab World and Africa.

It is very important that you read and take heed of the advice that is to follow. Three females have been mugged right in in front of Fajr Center in the past two months (all separate incidents). They were just walking to school with their handbags when a car pulled up, yanked their bags off of them and drove away!

It’s not a common occurrence but it DOES happen. I have lived here for almost a year now and alhamdulillah I haven’t encountered any crime however, hearing of these stories made me realize that foreign students are an easy target. I dress simply and try to blend in so I’m always mistaken for a local (yes folks, even my Converse shoes don’t stand out because - believe it or not - they’re just as popularly worn here as they are in the states!)

1. Don’t wear big fancy handbags that attract attention/ that are easy to grab.
2. Don’t take your wallet with you every where. Only take as much money as you think you’ll need and a little extra in case of emergency. Always leave your Bank cards and passport at home (unless in case of necessity)
3. Don’t bring a fancy mobile phone/cellphone with you - come with a simple unlocked quad-band phone that will serve it’s purpose and not attract attention
4. Don’t wear gold on the street
5. When walking on the street, walk as far away from the cars as you can and stay closer to the buildings.
6. Be aware of your surroundings, keep a hand on your bag and make sure it’s always closed tight and close to you.
7. Walk with confidence, don’t look vulnerable. Avoid speaking other languages loudly (apart from Arabic). Don’t tell people you’re lost or that you don’t speak Arabic. It’s better if they just assume you’re a rude snob who doesn’t want to talk to them vs. them figuring out you’re a foreigner. It is crucial to familiarize yourself with some local words…which is why I highly recommend buying the Lonely Planet’s Egyptian Phrase-book before coming.
8. Don’t give money to any random beggar. This may surprise you but trust me, some of them will stalk you or send their family members to follow you home and harass you for more money (this has happened to me and many people I know) - So since you will be unable to distinguish the good from the bad, just avoid it altogether. There are other safer ways to give charity (such as to the Egyptian National Food Bank, Masjids, Islamic Relief.)
9. Don’t DRESS like you’re in your home country. Come on, you’re in Egypt. Do you really want to wear clothes that say “Hi, I just arrived from America and I’m loaded with dollars. Come mug me.”
10. Don’t pull out your camera everywhere you go and look like a tourist.

I hope this post doesn’t put anyone off coming to Cairo to study. Pick-pocketing and mugging happens in all major cities across the globe. You just have to be extra cautious whenever you’re living in an unfamiliar place. Overall I feel very safe in Cairo alhamdulillah and if you follow my advice, I’m sure you will too!

Patience in your studies…

A patient student will realize that Arabic is an ancient language, and does not always have to make sense in their native English. One has to think like an Arab in order to fully grasp the beauty and eloquence of the language. There have been a few test questions I’ve gotten wrong simply because I answered it the way an American would look at the question and not from an Arab perspective. Instead of letting my frustration get the best of me, I told myself I have to have patience and think like an Arab if I want to understand their language and culture. Below are a few helpful tips for dealing with the downs…

Patience with Vocabulary

One single Arabic word can encompass great meaning. Get used to writing the definitions for your vocabulary in Arabic and wean yourself off of relying on English equivalents.

Fi3l-Friendly: Learn and memorize Sarf tricks to help you with verb conjugation. It makes life so much easier.

Ism Orientation: It definitely takes a lot of patience and interest in order to retain Arabic vocab. It’s best whenever learning a new word to find out its forms in singular, plural, feminine, masculine, as well as its synonyms and opposite. When you learn a new ism in its singular form it’s best to use Sarf tricks to help you figure out its plural on your own.

Don’t hate the Harf: You may find yourself feeling frustrated at times when you cannot find an English equivalent for a fi3l-harf combination and can’t make sense of it. To put it simply, Arabic is an age-old language, (much much older than English) so give it the respect it deserves. Whenever you learn a new verb make a point to memorize the harf(s) that go along with them and understand that using the wrong harf can instantly change the meaning (ex. Raghba fi vs. Raghba 3an) !

Patience with handwriting

Learning how to write clearly and quickly from right to left takes lots of effort. Mechanical pencils with really good erasers will become your best friends. Once you master the letters and how to write them properly in their beginning/middle/end forms, get used to the following shortcuts:

- Draw a short horizontal line instead of two dots for the Ya or Ta.

- Use an upside down ‘V’ instead of three dots for the Sheen or Tha

- Curve the end of the Noon into its empty center instead of drawing a dot above it

- Curve the end of the Kaf into the empty center instead of drawing a hamza in the middle. [In it's end form]

- Draw the Ta Marboota at the end of the word as a slanted line (a tail), no dots required

Patience with Teachers

Know that you are privileged to have an Arabic language specialist sitting in front of you ready to weed our all your mistakes. I’ve found that when speaking to friends in fus-ha they don’t often correct my mistakes and as long as they understand the intended meaning of my speech they carry on the conversation as if I’ve said everything correctly. My Arabic teachers at school are much stricter alhamdulilah and if your teacher is not being strict with you in that sense then I suggest you bring that to her attention. My teachers listen to every sound and test my every word. Or if there’s a better way of getting my point across they’ll correct my sentence and give me better wording to use. Have patience and hang onto your train of thought because they may often stop you mid sentence to correct you, don’t take it personally.

Patience with Your Peers

Keep in mind that you may take longer than your friends to achieve the same results. You may require more study time than your roommates…handwriting may take a lot more effort for you while you see your classmates already finished writing the lesson from the board. Have patience with yourself and know that everyone has their strengths and weaknesses. Sammer and I, for example, are a complementary pair of classmates because the areas she’s stronger in I’m struggling in and the areas I’ve grasped faster may take more effort on her part. Since we were in level one we’ve always managed to score between .5 and 2.5 points difference between eachother and it always alternates, either she’ll score higher than me by a couple points or vice versa. Competition is healthy but only when your intentions are sincere and you allow it to motivate you to do your best. Don’t let it get you down.

My Visit to Salam Center

Markaz Salam is a one month old Arabic Learning Center right across the street from King Fahad High School (very close to Masjid Bilal). I had heard very good things about this center and decided to take my cousin there to check it out. It was founded by Ustath Mahmoud Ziyadah, the founder of this website: http://welovearabic.com/

We received a warm welcome and I was very impressed from the moment I stepped in. The center itself is very nice and the curriculum seems excellent. All the books used were written by the founder himself. It seems like he took the best from Kitab al-Asaasi, Al-Arabiyyah Bayna Yadayk, and the Medinah Uni Arabic books combined, masha’Allah.

They put high priority to giving the student a custom class designed specifically to their needs…something I find lacking in most of the centers here even in those that offer private classes. After visiting other centers, my cousin decided to register for Salam Center on the spot! At the moment they are just starting off so they only have a small staff but I’m sure it will continue to grow insha’Allah. Private classes are 20 LE an hour. Classrooms have AC :)

The Akhir Kalam is that it looks like my cousin will start off with Salam Center and see how it goes, and then she may consider still taking one of the Summer Intensive programs with Fajr Center.

My Visit to Nile Center and Sibawayh

First we visited Nile Center. Cute modest little building, we saw the women’s campus only. Took while to arrive there after a series of confusing directions. They are unable to offer private classes for the summer due to a shortage of teachers.

Right around the corner from it is Sibwayh. Very friendly, they came and met us at Masjid Musa bin Nusayr and escorted us to the center. Friendly people and very helpful. Right away they started offering to find other female students that come from our area so we could walk to school in groups. I found this to be unique about the center, and very admirable (that they offered that right away without us requesting it) They offer a number of private Islamic Studies classes too for advanced Arabic students although I know very little about the qualifications of the teachers for those subjects. I should have asked more.

I took my cousin to check out those two centers for classes, but at the end of the day she’s leaning towards joining Markaz Fajr.

The Writing’s on the Wall

Well, kind of.

I purchased a large transparent poster-sticker from a stationary store near our house (end of Makram Ubaid) on the right. For 4.50 LE! After sticking it on my bedroom wall, I now use regular dry-erase markers to write on it. I highly recommend this because it has helped me tremendously while studying and it’s fun to use.

Note: If you can’t find the jumbo transparent sticker that I have, then there’s another option: plastic wrap taped to the wall. After all, “this is Africa.” Be creative. I let so much time go on.. just missing my white-board… it took my creativity 9 months to kick in so don’t let the same happen to you! I’ve been told you can use your fridge door as a white-board too. Before you do make sure you test it out on a small area first because believe me, you don’t want to feel the wrath of an Egyptian Landlord!

You can also use white-board markers on mirrors, windows, and filing cabinets, I’m thinking I can use the top of my Macbook too! On Lifehack.org there’s a list of 10+ Things to Do with Dry-Erase Markers

Arabic is for you too.

Abdullah b. Zayd Al-Numayri reports that Al-Hasan Al-Basra said:

They (the heretics) were destroyed by their inability in Arabic (al-’ujmah).

Al-Bukhari, Al-Tarikh al-Kabir Vol.5 p99.

And Imam ash-Shafi’i said:

People didn’t become ignorant and didn’t differ amongst themselves except because they left Arabic and leaned towards the language of Aristotle.
Quoted by Al-Suyuti in Sawn Al-Mantiq p15.

He said on p22:
I have found Salaf before Al- Shafi’i indicate what he did:
That the cause of heresy (al-ibtida’) is ignorance of Arabic language.

Preparedness

Assalaamu `alaykum,

Alhamdulillah quite a few people have expressed their interest in coming to Egypt to study. Here is a list of my top suggested items for you to bring:

[Disclaimer: I am not responsible for the decrease in Eman or financial savings incurred upon acquiring/using/breaking/being robbed of/abusing the following items.]

dusty-balcony.jpg

The dust in Egypt comes out of nowhere and spreads like a plague. The picture above was taken only about a week after I had my balcony floor scrubbed clean. My mom sent me a Swiffer mop, yay!

Shoes:

Converse chucks are the best shoes to bring to Egypt. They are have strong, solid, rubber soles that can withstand the rugged city terrain. The canvas is durable and hasn’t frayed even the slightest. The best part about these shoes is they can be put into the washing machine. My Converse were dusty and filthy but after a spin in the washing machine they came out looking brand new. Good walking shoes are essential during your stay here.

Backpack:

Sure, you can buy a backpack once you’re here but you won’t find anything ergonomic for a decent price. The one I bought in the States is Kenneth Cole (like the one pictured above except slightly different style) has protective space for both your laptop and mp3 player on the inside. It also has plenty of handy pockets for extra storage. The outside is waterproof (yes, believe it or not it rained a lot during the winter) and stays clean. The straps are thick and cushiony.

White board:

whiteboard-blog-pic.jpg

I was all set to shove my white board into my suitcase before leaving until my mom prevented me. She thought it’d be too big and inconvenient to take. She was right, I had no space but now that I’m here I do wish I’d brought it. Alhamdulillah Sammer brought one with her! Arabic is mathematical. Very mathematical. Drawing charts and formulas really helps. But don’t stop there, you must then proceed to memorize them. Keeping lists of new vocabulary up where you can see it every day also helps.

Medicine:

Even if you’re not a big fan of meds, I recommend you bring some essential things that you won’t find here. Such as the remarkable headache remedy: Head-On. The heat over here gets so intense that the blood in your head feels as though it’s boiling. The result: A pounding headache with migraine potential. I am SO glad I brought this little tube of Head-On with me. It even feels cold once you’ve put it on and offers fast relief. Alhamdulillah!

Chap stick:

lip-vitamins.JPG

The desert climate dehydrates you and dries out your lips. Burt’s Bees or LIP VITAMINS chap stick work the best and last the longest. I also like Carmex.

Calendar / Agenda:

Your study plans will change a lot while you’re here. Keep a calendar and always write in pencil. You’ll find that seeing your level completion dates on paper in front of you is encouraging. We also purchased Arabic agendas over here and I highly recommend it. It has the Hijri and Gregorian dates, as well the days of the week in Arabic.

Books:

If you’re anything like we are, you’ll feel a strong urge to read. Of course it’s best to read Arabic books while you’re here but there’s nothing wrong with wanting to continue to educate yourself in your own language. It keeps you from getting overwhelmed and bored. I recommend bringing at least one informative book about Egypt…such as the Lonely Planet guide (they also sell an Egyptian phrase book - pictured above - that is extremely helpful in your daily interactions with the people here. Even if you speak in fus-ha with them 9/10 times they will reply to you in the local dialect so it’s extremely risky to be totally unfamiliar with it. You’ll get ripped off, cheated, proposed to, misunderstood etc.

It’s also a good idea to bring some books you’ve always wanted to read but never got around to. Of course there are many Islamic Texts, namely, the translation of the Qur’an and texts of Ahadith. There’s also benefit in reading fiction (The Kite Runner by Khaled Hosseini) or a political/historical work like The Great War for Civilization by Robert Fisk. I also recommend something that connects your native language and Arabic such as Arabic to English proverb books (my all time favorite ones are three by Primrose Arnander and Askhain Skipwith entitled: The Son of a Duck is a Floater, Apricots Tomorrow, and lastly Unload Your Own Donkey!) It has been said, “To understand a people, acquaint yourself with their proverbs.”

MP3 Player:

I know all of you iPod lovers will disagree but I prefer the Creative Zen 30 GB. It has an FM Tuner (unlike the iPod) so I can tune into local radio stations. They have awesome Qur’an stations, Arabic talk shows, and Islamic programs to listen to. There’s also BBC world and Nile FM is sometimes funny to listen to. Oh the best part about the Zen is that it has a built in microphone…so I can record Qur’an recitations live, khutbahs, classes, funny street noises etc. I can also record myself to evaluate my tajweed when reciting Qur’an. The Arabic books at Fajr Center come with audio CD’s. I uploaded all the audio onto my laptop and then to my MP3 player so I can listen to them while cooking, cleaning, studying, walking, riding to and from school. As was reported on CNN once, I - and others like me- are part of Generation M. Urban Dictionary defines us as, “Generation Multi-tasking, today’s teenagers who IM, do homework, watch TV and listen to/download music all at the same time.” Although I’m not a teen and I multi-task in different activities, the habit carries into adulthood, in case you didn’t know…

Bedside essentials:

next-to-my-head.jpg

Your Cellphone. Make sure it is unlocked and Quad-Band. This will also serve as your staple alarm clock and currency converter. I also suggest a book light so you don’t disturb your roommates while reading at night. I have my own bedroom and I still use a book light because most Egyptian apartments come with dreaded TUBE LIGHTING in the bedrooms. Those things belong in offices, not houses! It’s really not conducive to a calm reading atmosphere.

Lap desk:

Seriously if you disregard everything else on my list of suggested items, don’t disregard this one! Everywhere becomes study-zone when you have one of these. Many fully furnished apartments do not come with desks or work zones or even proper dining tables. You’ll find a lap desk extremely handy…you can literally sit on the floor, in bed, on the couch or the balcony and do your homework etc. Here is a picture of our sitting room. The black thing on the stool is my lap desk. See how it creates an instant, comfortable, study zone?

.our-sitting-room-small.jpg

Winter Clothes:

novelty-winter-coat.jpg

I survived the winter here without winter clothes. But why would I wish the same for you? Please bring layers of clothes you can wear in the winter, including socks, a nice thick coat, scarf and gloves. The apartments do not have central heating and believe me these stone structured buildings get very cold in the winter. The winter season lasted from November to February for us! Some nights were so cold we slept fully garbed in layers with our prayer garments over that plus hijabs wrapped on tightly…

Internet gadgets:

We purchased a wireless router over here for 400 LE (over $70 USD ) and it isn’t even a good one. It’s called AirLive and has a very short range. You’re better off bringing your own when you come.

Travel Mug:

You will need to stay awake in class. You may not always have time to drink coffee or tea before leaving for school. We make it and drink it on the go, usually in the taxi and then in class if our teacher permits us. The GOOD ones here are expensive. We bought the cheapest ones in the store for 25 LE but they leak.

-

That’s all for now but if I think of more I’ll update this post so refer back to it before coming here. Insha’Allah.

Say NO to holidays every 12 days!

Sahlab

Assalamu `alaykum,

February 23rd marked our 6 month mark. So far it’s been about 6 months of surviving and 5 months of studying. …Ash3uru bil-7uzn wa nafsul-waqt ash3uru bis-suroor…Ironically, I’m sad because I feel so happy here and I know it will not last. With each new day, milestones like delving deeper into Balagha and Sarf are just around the corner for me but not long after that so is my return date. We have been maintaining our intensive hours (6 hours a day/5 days a week) and alhamdulillah we will be starting level 7 tomorrow, if Allah wills. We are trying to maintain a pace that allows us to finish 2 levels per month. Through constant revision of grammar and practicing vocabulary, we believe this is attainable so long as we take final exams every other weekend. This inevitably means we will be taking exams every single weekend (the pattern would be: Midlevel, final, midlevel, final…etc). There’s only one thing standing in our way. I never thought I’d say this but:

H o l i d a y s    a r e     s u c h     a     w a s t e     o f     t i m e !

In our situation - on our time limit - we will only be able to finish all 13 levels by the first week of June if we stick to this pace and NOT take any breaks (other than weekends). Fajr Center said they are going to try their best to assign us a teacher who will be able to accommodate this request for us. See the problem is, Fajr awards every teacher the right to take a week off after every 75 hours of working. At the pace we’re going, we’ll be completing 75 hours every 12 days, so we simply cannot afford to be taking a week off every 12 days, that’s just absurd!

I hope it works out for us insha’Allah. Tomorrow we find out if our new teacher will be willing to accommodate our No-Holiday demands. If she can, then I think I will celebrate with a nice hot glass of sahlab, insha’Allah!

My Review of Fajr Center

My review of Fajr Center thus far (thanks to Sammer for her additions)

I have been a student with Markaz Fajr since September 2007. I am currently in a group class for the Winter Intensive program but prior to this I was studying one-on-one with a teacher and I plan to return to a private setting once the winter program concludes. I had initially intended to study at Diwan Center and had registered with them. However upon arrival in Cairo my circumstances changed and Diwan Center was no longer an option for me.

Fajr Center’s method is not to introduce grammar until level 3 or 4. In levels 0-3 they focus mostly on building vocabulary, reading accuracy and comprehension, listening and understanding, as well as speaking abilities. They are generally known for not assigning much homework either.

I began my Arabic studies at the Fajr Branch in Maadi. Here’s what I thought of it:

Prices: The cost of classes here are about $50 USD more expensive than Nasr City. Even the book prices are 10 LE more! This is because the area is much more posh; catered towards ex-patriots and upper class.
Administration: Excellent people. Friendly, flexible, helpful, very understanding. Never had a single problem with them other than the fact that they don’t always call you back when they say they will but that’s the same at most places around here.
Teachers: Superb. Some with over 12 years of experience teaching Arabic. All of them very organized and very knowledgeable of the language, I don’t think I’d be wrong if I said this branch has the best teachers.
Class curriculum: If you’re studying Classical Arabic (Fus-ha) then you have a choice between two books: Al-Arabiyya Bayna Yadayk or Kitab al-Asaasi. There are midterm and final exams. The exams here are completely different than the exams at Nasr City. They are supposed to be able to offer you a maximum of 6 hours a day for class but since they only have around 4 teachers total they might not be able to. When I was with them they had begun a new policy where you could only choose between 2 hour long classes or 4 hour long classes.
Environment: Mostly non-Muslims attend this branch. Large number of Europeans as well as Asians from China and Japan are generally found here. But since group classes are not usually offered at this branch (unless you come with a group of friends in the same level as you) you’d rarely get the chance to mix with other students.
Facility: Located on a busy intersection called Midan al-Arab which is only a short drive from the Nile, The center itself is very small with 3 classrooms for females and 3 classrooms for males all on one floor. All classrooms have Air Conditioning.

Here’s what I’ve thought of the Medinat Nasr (Nasr City) branch:

Prices: This is the main Fajr Branch and also the cheapest in terms of course costs and book costs. For pricing check out the website www.fajrcenter.com

Administration: The women’s side tends not to know many answers to questions and rely heavily on calling the men’s side to find out. I was told one thing from the administration in Maadi and then suddenly learned of completely new policies when I arrived at the Nasr City branch, this made it very clear to me that they operate very differently from branch to branch.

Teachers: So far I’ve studied with only one teacher from this branch. She is very friendly, cheerful and patient with us. However, possibly because of her age (late twenties) she doesn’t compare to the teachers that were in Maadi, in terms of her depth of knowledge and experience. I’ve found she sticks to the book and teaches our grammar lessons only when the book introduces it to us. Whereas in Maadi, our teachers were much more grammar focused and wouldn’t hesitate to familiarize with a new grammar lesson even if it was something that wouldn’t be introduced until a higher level. Fajr Center’s method, unlike other centers around here, is to introduce grammar very slowly. When taking group classes you are forced to follow this method. If you’ve signed up for private classes however, you have more freedom to request more challenging grammar lessons from your teacher.

Class curriculum: To my knowledge you have no choice of books at this branch. You must study levels ~ 1-9 from Al-Arabiyya Bayna Yadayk. There are midterm and final exams. The content of the exams here is completely different than the exams at say, the Maadi branch. They have quite a few teachers on their staff in both the men and women’s sides. So far we have had no problem getting 6 hours a day 5 days a week with a private teacher, something almost impossible to schedule at Maadi branch.

Environment: Majority of the students at this branch happen to be Muslim. I’ve met non-Muslim students as well but it’s quite apparent on the women’s side that the bulk of attendees are Muslim women, majority who wear the hijab or niqab (which they remove obviously once inside the center). Unlike the Maadi branch, you’re bound to interact with people at Nasr City and make friends. This branch has a prayer room and a small canteen that has snacks, drinks, coffee, and tea for sale. The Maadi branch did not.

Facility: Nice location near the main road Mustafa an-Nahhas. It is behind a few buildings so it is not directly on the main road which is nice. The men and women’s classes are in entirely different buildings within 1 minute walking distance from each other. Neither building is marked clearly with any type of sign. It’s a nice quiet area but the roads back there are unpaved for the most part. There’s a nice little snack stand nearby and if you’re daring, an omelet stand on the corner of the street where you can pick up some breakfast on the go! Pizza hut and a couple other restaurants are also within 2 minutes walking distance from the school.

Classrooms: The classrooms are varied in size. Most of them have whiteboards. The desks on the women’s side seem to be remnants of what the men’s side has replaced. They are small, with the attached desk. The rooms are carpeted. Most rooms do not have air-conditioning, and have a small heater in the winter time. It gets very cold, wear big fluffy socks. The walls tend to be undecorated, maybe one poster here or there.

Tests: Oral examinations are required at the end of each level. These are usually conducted by Mr. Mohamad on the men’s side. All sisters are required to take their oral examination with him as well.

Academics: You spend a good amount of time speaking in class and making sentences, doing Q and A with classmates and the teacher. This time is valuable to correct your mistakes and pick up on new vocabulary and sentence structure.

A detailed account of my first Fajr Center field trip

On Thursday we went on our second Field trip with Fajr Center and had a blast! There was a group of 16 of us altogether plus a tour guide. We met at 9 AM in front of the school. They had a nice bus waiting out front for us. It had a microphone and speakers so the tour guide could speak to us throughout the drive. We drove through Maadi to pick up students from the Maadi Fajr branch and Sammer and I were reminiscent of the good times we had at that branch (it’s been a month since we were in Maadi…). Once the bus was full of students, we headed to our first stop: Giza and the ancient Pyramids. Entrance into that area costs 50 LE but for the fortunate students who brought student ID with them it’s only 25 (Fajr Center’s $35 USD charge for the whole trip is a flat rate though, no matter if you’re getting student discount or not…). We were each issued a ticket at the gate and if you’re not a pack rat like me who likes to save those kinda things as souvenirs, then remember to hold onto the ticket because you’ll need it later on for seeing other sites like the Sphynx.

You’ll find people from all over the globe at the Pyramids. In our group alone we had Americans, Ukrainians, Azerbaijani, Nigerians, Brits, South Africans, Italians, Asians and Egyptians. The Pyramids were supposed to be tombs right? It’s funny because so many people come to visit them and yet the Pharaohs whom they were built for are not even inside them! They had these ridiculously large monuments built thinking they’d serve as honor, protection, and tribute to themselves, yet what happened in the end? The tombs were raided and robbed, stripped of any value or worth. The bodies which they spent obscene amounts of time mummifying to preserve, ended up being stolen and removed from their tombs. They used millions of the biggest and best blocks of rock and Allah knows how many laborers to build it and yet it still didn’t protect them one bit. When I stood at the foot of the largest of the Giza Pyramids, climbed its blocks and looked up, I was taken back for a moment by it’s massive size. One huge lie - that’s what it symbolized to me. Declaring self divinity, burying wealth and possessions alongside them for the afterlife, claiming right to be venerated in life and after death by these structures. It’s as if the Pyramids themselves, blocks of enormous rocks once placed there mysteriously…meticulously…stacked towards the sun are lies built upon lies, standing to this day to serve as a clear reminder to us all: It may be that a person will elevate them self during their life only to be debased in the end. The only provisions that will last and benefit us in the hereafter will be our Eman and righteous deeds. Men are capable, by the Will of Allah, to design and build amazing structures that we are in awe of. Just imagine then what Allah has designed for His righteous servants in the afterlife…and with Him is all Might and Power.

The largest most ancient idol still standing today is the Sphynx. It’s ghastly with its womanly head and lion-like body. Birds perch themselves on its head, in the crevices of its eyes and ears…probably ‘dropping’ their lunch on it too. My first thought upon seeing it was, Haha, that’s pretty small. But then I remembered the tiny animal figurines I used to collect as a child, the ones I would find in the Red Rose Tea cartons. How tiny and carefully carved they were. Yet one year I informed my mother I wasn’t going to collect them anymore because I wasn’t comfortable with the idea that they were mini statues. Those little figurines -I’d collect them, polish them, display them and save them for years - might have in reality collected sin for me, I feared. I imagined one of the little lion figurines and how it would seem like a speck, barely a pebble, next to the Sphynx. And it scared me to think of how much more sin an idol that size could carry for the ones who built and worshipped it. The Athan sounded and I felt immediate relief. After seeing such large monuments to Shirk and pride your heart finds comfort in the Athan’s vocal assertion that God is indeed Great and there is none worthy of worship besides Him. It is only after cleansing the outer self with water and the inner self through worship, bowing, humbling, and submitting one’s entire self to God alone, that it becomes easier to make sense of the world and its peculiarity.

The Muslims among our group headed off to the restrooms to perform ablution and chuckled at the fact that you have to pay 1 pound to enter the restrooms. How absurd.
It took us a while to walk to the masjid, we walked through the poor Giza town that lies just in view of the Sphynx’s archaic eyes. The streets were lined with horses, camels, and donkeys. Some either carrying loads or were grazing from piles of grass rationed out for them by their owners, others were parked near the walls waiting for the next customers to hop on. I had to lift my clothes from dragging in the puddles on the road that I soon realized were NOT water and were in fact camel urine. After Salah we headed to an age old perfume store just at the entrance to the town still in view of the hideous Sphynx. The owners were the Sha3r Family and, as is customary, they immediately offered us anything we wanted to drink as soon as we entered - we all eagerly accepted! The owner has good ties with Fajr center so we enjoyed an entertaining presentation he put on for us about the history, process, and uses of real non-alcoholic non-oil perfumes. He spoke excellent English has tons of energy, he was a classic Egyptian salesman. Some of his jokes were a bit crude though and I wish he’d have toned it down a little, especially since we had a 10 year old boy in our group. He was also our tour guide for the Papyrus Museum next door which I believe his family also owns. He did an A+ job in there where he told us all about Papyrus, showed us the plant and did the process of making paper from it right before our eyes. We were served drinks yet again and we sipped them as we walked around the store to see beautiful paintings done on Papyrus. Sammer and I decided to buy some blank sheets of Papyrus paper that we plan to paint on to create our own artwork, insha’Allah.

By the time we were done in there it was Asr time already so the Muslims among us headed to another nearby masjid for Salah. The Imam was funny because in addition to the usual advice that they say while the jama3ah is lining up, this guy also said a couple lines about turning off cellphones for prayer, hehe. It was eloquent too because he made it rhyme. I understood it when I heard it yet I wouldn’t be able to recall it well enough to repeat it to you now.

Next was my favorite part of the trip!

The town was so poor that there were no street lights and the locals ride horses, camels and donkeys more than cars. We walked over to the parking lot of camels and horses. Little boys who were meant to be our designated steerers asked us whether we wanted a camel or a horse. I, being the American that I am, thought I can ride a horse any time in America but how often will I get to ride a camel!? So the little boy led me to my camel. The camel he gave me was growling and turned its head to snap at me and the boy next to me several times. I kept asking the boy, “Is he upset? Is he old? Is he mean?” but the little boy kept saying, “No! He’s good camel! It’s OK!” When I sat on the camel and it stood up however I got the exact opposite impression. That thing was a beast! It was extremely upset about having to stand up and didn’t seem cooperative at all like the other camels. It swayed its head on its long neck side to side snapping and growling, showing its huge teeth. I told them in English I didn’t like him, but the boy kept nodding his head reassuringly like it would be OK. So I spoke to him in my best Egyptian slang and told him “LISTEN! I DON’T WANT THIS CAMEL. GIVE ME A HORSE INSTEAD” and finally he took me seriously. I got off the beast..I mean camel and he led me to the sweetest prettiest horse in the lot. She was a beautiful horse named Warda. She was young so she wasn’t overpowering in size but I soon learnt that she packed some powerful strength in those legs! She was very affectionate and liked it when I greeted her and rubbed her forehead. I loved her immediately and not for one second did I regret switching from camel to horse!

We rode through the local town caravan style. The people from our group who rode camels were linked together by a rope and walked in a line at a steady pace. The few of us who took horses had more freedom to go as slow or fast as we wanted and we could choose whether or not we wanted a steerer. Since it was my first time, I kept my steerer, who turned out to be a pleasant young boy named Ahmed who spoke to me about the beauty, power and abilities of horses as I rode. He told me that horses see the road with their hearts and instincts not necessarily with their eyes and that this was a ni3mah bestowed upon them by Allah. When he wanted me to loosen up a little and have fun he’d ask me “you want the horse to do “cha cha cha?” to which I could either reply yes and he’d have Warda run with the wind or I could say “No! My bag will fall!” and he’d chuckle and say, “ok ok”. He didn’t whip the horse once like I saw the other boys doing. Instead whenever he wanted Warda to run, he’d tell her “Chyeeeeeeeeer” (whatever that means) and click his tongue and she was immediately responsive. He ran alongside the horse and me the entire time on foot and when I squealed that my bag was slipping from my shoulder and I wanted to slow down for a bit he needed only to tug once on the side of her reign and she knew to stop running. When we finally reached the desert I was a little more relaxed. After all, if I were to fall, it would only be on sand! Every few minutes or so some Arab men on their steeds would gallop and race and I’d watch in amazement as they rode with such speed, confidence and control past me -leaving me and a cloud of sand in the air left behind by the powerful hooves. There was nothing in view except the desert, the vast beautiful desert and the sky! In the panorama we could see the Pyramids but I could care less for them at that point. I imagined what it would have been like at the time of the Sahabah, on horseback. I imagined Amr ibn al Aas riding in the very same desert on his horse! I remembered my mom telling me “there’s something very therapeutic about riding a horse…” and I finally understood what she meant. Though it hurt a little, there’s something so natural about the movement of the horse underneath you and I felt it extremely easy to remain on the horse without once feeling like I’d fall off. She’d charge forward through the sea of sand rocks and I’d lean forward with her, blocking out everything but the sound of her galloping hooves on the earth. I loved every minute of it.

We finally reached a spot in the desert where we hopped off of our animals and took pictures. Then we watched the beautiful sunset over the desert and the Athan sounded again. This time it was from a bedouin man next to his tent with a fire ablaze, illuminating the night and warming him from the cold. It was incredibly peaceful and beautiful watching him call the Athan out into the desert from beside his little camp. I went to go pet Warda and found her nuzzling muzzles with a big brown steed. She put her head underneath his as if he could protect her and keep her warm. It was so precious! I snapped a picture of it to capture their lovey dovey moment. I remembered the hadith about Allah’s Mercy and that one part was sent down to the creation, proof of which can be seen when a mare lifts her hooves so as not to trample her foal out of mercy and love. Horses are such stunning and intelligent creatures, subhanAllah. After we finished there we mounted our animals again and rode off into the darkening night sky all the way back. The ride back was freezing cold, the temperature sure does drop in the desert at night! I wished I’d worn a sweater and gloves! In fact, my hands were getting so cold and numb that at one point I gave up holding on as I rode. I let Ahmed carry my bag on his shoulder so that I could ride faster and get back to town sooner for relief from the bone-chilling air!

I, along with two others on horseback, arrived back into town first. Since we had a while to wait for the rest of the caravan, I took the time to bond with Warda some more. I talked to her and rubbed her forehead. She closed her eyes as I did and it looked like she was sleeping. Horses can sleep standing up. It was time to say goodbye to her as the rest of our crew arrived. We gathered together to discuss how much to tip the boys, and then went back inside the perfume shop to rest and warm up. By this time I think it was past 7 PM. We were actually supposed to be back at the school by 6 PM but we were all having so much fun and we still had one more stop left so the Fajr chaperones extended the trip for us, heh. We ended our trip by getting back on the bus and heading to the Corniche next to Tahrir. It was here that we boarded a motorized Felucca and rode for an hour on the River Nile in the dark of the night. We gobbled up the bagged dinner they served us (it was the only meal we’d eaten all day), gazed at the lit Cairo skyline, and then shivered the entire time while the chilly wind accompanied us as we sailed. We boarded the bus for the last time and with sleepy minds, sleepy hearts, and sleepy eyes we rested and nodded off until we reached beloved Nasr City again. When we were close to home, the bus let us off and Sammer and I crossed the busy road to catch a taxi to take us to our apartment building, it was way too cold to walk there and we were very very sore from the horeback/camel riding. (Little did we know how much worse we’d be hurting the next day!). Alhamdulillah we made it home at around 10 PM and went straight to bed. It was a wonderful trip and a great experience.

Next Page »

Bad Behavior has blocked 94 access attempts in the last 7 days.